“A rose by any other name would smell as sweet”. This overworked and arguably misquoted ditty (depending on which version you read) from Act II, Scene II of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet may finally prove to be more prophetic than “ol’ Bill” ever dreamed possible. The reference, to borrow from Wikipedia, ”…is often used to imply that the names of things do not affect what they really are.” In the case of a certain group of wines sporting a color ranging from pale pink to flaming fuschia, names might ACTUALLY mean a lot. Take, for example, one of the many wines we know as a rosé from Provence, tucked neatly in the southeast corner of France. As luscious as a freshly plucked strawberry, floral and pretty as a newly-cut daisy, and more often than not, austere, leaning toward bone-dry with a slight but ever-so-perfectly balanced hint of fruit sweetness. Classically crafted wines with these beautiful and unmistakable “lighter-than-red” tints called rosés. hail from historic old world vineyards in France and the new world vines in the Americas as well…along with Rosadas from Spain and Portugal…Rosatos from Italy… names that speak of a group of light and lovely wines, all part of a style-set that is fast making a remarkable comeback on wine shelves the world over. We’re learning once again that treasures offer a delicious opportunity for light spring and summer sipping as well as many intriguing food pairing possibilities. For example, we very recently discovered a tasty, mid-bodied Washington State rosé blend of malbec and syrah! The amazing color JUMPED off the shelf to grab our attention! As it happens, we’ve found it to be the absolute BOMB with Memphis-style dry-rub baby back ribs! Seriously, there’s no end to the culinary possibilities when pairing rosés with foods.
We couldn’t think of a better flight of wines for this edition with Valentine’s Day just a day away and romance in the air! And with splashes of vivid pink popping up around every corner, what better time to taste (and talk about!) these beautiful pink pleasers we call rosé!
As a rule. most wineries release their newly bottled rosés in the spring for immediate spring and summer consumption. With their easy, light-sipping, and softly delicious styles, rosés pair nicely with a wide array of the foods of Spring and Summer, but it’s certainly no surprise that the more astute wine drinker is beginning to find rosé a delightful “lighter alternative” all year round.
So…let’s ask the question again…”What’s in a name?” For a little insight, we look a little closer at the stark contrast between the softly fragrant and elegantly subtle French rosés like the one just described…AND…the more recent versions of coral-hued, extraordinarily SWEET wines which have, perhaps unfairly, been accused of giving “all things pink” a bad rap! It all began in the early eighties, and, of course, we’re talking about that new scourge of the wine biz, ”White Zinfandel” aka; White Zin (quickly accompanied by a cadre of other sugary-sweet wines in the newly coined “blush-wine” category. Wines with names like “White (insert red wine varietal grape name here)…these overtly sweet, hot pink residual sugar-blasters hit the streets like modern-day designer fragrances… and they’ve been taking hostages ever since. Much to the consternation of the sophisticated “serious dry wine crowd” (many of whom admittedly take ourselves WAY too seriously at times), the new “blush wine” category was here to stay! These super-sugary, often soda-poppy new pinks managed to, as it turns out, perform a HUGE service for an otherwise ho-hum and, at that moment in the ‘mid-eighties, a slow-growing table wine industry. Oh…and by the way this all took place at almost exactly the same moment that the even more deeply-despised “wine-cooler” market was beginning to grasp the attention of new consumers! These new “party pinks” as so many in the “Pinot-pundit wine writer” community nicknamed them, actually did something MAGICAL for the wine industry! They single-handedly brought hundreds of thousands of so-called “pop-wine” (ie; Boones Farm, Annie Green Springs, Tyvola, Bali Hai, etc.) drinkers voluntarily to the newly expanded altar of “table wines”. Yes, dear friends, the newly labeled “blush wine” category played a pivotal role in the meteoric growth of the varietal table wine industry we know today. It accomplished this feat by serving as a “taste/style bridge” between the then popular pop-wine category and the more respected and “legitimate” (and WAY more profitable) varietal table category which included the likes of riesling, pinot grigio, moscato, merlot, etc. Many of these varietal wines may not be enjoying their current success had it not been for the blush wine category’s magical “bridge-trick”!
So…how do we define that fine pink line between “rose” and “blush”? Begin by asking your wine merchant the simple question ”Is it dry/dryer?” After that, do a little research. Do a little “rosé reading”…ya gotta love the internet, right? (And here’s a quick and reliable rosé tip…when in doubt, you can’t go wrong with virtually ANY of the wines of Provence in France. While that may be “just MY opinion” check out the comments and scores the first two wines (both from Provence) garnered from our Crew later in this article!). A LOT of retail shelf space is now occupied by a virtual smorgasbord of rosés ranging from lightly fruity to elegant, austere, nearly bone-dry. They’re more popular than ever in today’s bustling retail wine market! Oh…and here’s another great surprise…you don’t have to knock over a liquor store to afford them!
One of the more astonishing bits of information stumbled upon during this writing has to do with rosés’ remarkable affordability. If, for example, your “bucket-list” includes the ability to one day be able to afford a bottle of “the most expensive rosé on planet Earth , you shouldn’t have to wait very long AND you won’t have to spend what a lot of folks would consider “a lot of money”! In fact, according to Forbes Magazine’s March 25, 2015 article, “The Most expensive Rosé in the World”, two wines, both from Chateau D’Esclans in France’s Côtes de Provence, “Les Clans” at $56.99 and “Garrus” at $79.99 are the most expensive rosés in the world! How is that possible, you might ask. Especially when a not-all-that-old bottle of burgundy, a 1990 Domaine Romanee Conti currently fetches upwards of thirteen grand…or when older Sauternes and several of the first-growth bordeaux can dent your Visa card in a four-digit way? The answer is actually pretty simple… rosés (with the rare exception of Champagne Rosé) are absolutely best when they are consumed young…in the 1-3 year old range. Mind you, high-end rosé champagnes (like the case of ’64 Mumm Cordon Rosé we stumbled upon several years back) can be greatly improved by aging, a totally mind-blowing wine experience, and generally speaking, will rattle the cash register quite vigorously! But rosé “still” wines ( table wines), even the most “well-bred”, are surprisingly affordable. You should, in fact, be able to buy a bottle of world class rosé for under thirty-five bucks all day long! That’s why you don’t see offerings of “rare old rosé” in fine wine shops . By definition, “rare, old rosés” are more likely to be “declining, probably-worn-out, wines WAY past their prime”. Hence, dear wine-sipper, there’s really no collectability or age-related rarity to be had with a rosé. So…let’s review the first rule of rosé; these wines are inexpensive, fun, and delicious, provided they’re consumed YOUNG! Buy them to drink NOW! As a general rule, if the vintage date on the bottle is more than three years ago, keep looking for a newer bottle.
Let’s take a look at how rosé wines are made. There are several methods used to make rosé, but in the interest of brevity, we’ll only take a close look at the three most frequently employed winemaking techniques; bleeding, limited maceration, and pressing.
Saignée (pronounced sohn’-yay) or bleeding is the preferred method for making the highest quality rosés in many parts of the world, but most especially France. The juice is naturally pressed by placing the harvested grapes into a large tank, then allowing the weight of the grapes to do the actual “pressing”. With this method,the juice is in contact with the skins of the grapes for a very limited period of time, and the wines produced using this technique are almost always very lightly colored (with some exceptions, of course). For example, the Gris de Bourgogne from the Loire, is a pale, pretty, light and elegant rosé made using the Saignée method. The wines are complex with bold fruit characters, yet a remarkable level of “fresh-fruit” style.
Limited maceration is, by far, the most widely used rosé making method throughout the world. In fact, many of the wines of biblical and historic (think “Pharaoh”) accounts, were most likely more “rosé” than a “red”. This method, the oldest in recorded history and by far, the easiest to employ, existed long before most of the new and advanced techniques for maximized color tannin extraction. The skins of the crushed grapes are left in contact with the juice until the optimum desired color is attained. At that time, the juice is pumped (or drained) off of the skins then transferred to different vessel, vat, or tank to finish the process of fermentation.
Pressé. (like it sounds), is a rosé winemaking method where the red grapes are pressed (or squeezed) until the juice reaches the color the winemaker is looking for. When the juice reaches that color, the pressing is stopped.
Our Crew for this event was, as always, anxious to dive into their assigned Sunday afternoon task. I always learn something about people and wine…or wine and people…or sometimes just a little bit about one or the other at these tasting events. It was a delight to discover that these wonderfully refreshing rosé wines brought out the very best in an already lovely bunch of people! And again, as usual, all agreed that being a member of The Crew, was, as one member put it, “…still the best way to spend a Sunday afternoon!” If you happen to be a new reader of BeneathTheCork.com, you should know that the members of our tasting Crews are never the same bunch of folks. They’re an ever-changing, newly selected group of eight or nine buddies, pals, neighbors, friends, colleagues, etc. all gathered to taste a flight of wines, and subsequently scribble pages of tasting notes, along with their impressions, thoughts, food pairing ideas, etc. for this blog. The eclectic group known as The Crew come from all backgrounds, foregrounds, fairgrounds, undergrounds, and walks of life, and are always, without exception, chosen to participate because they possess the two critical traits that have become our selection criteria.. They’re nice folks to hang out with, and they LOVE wines!
We follow a set and standard tasting format. All of the wines are tasted and evaluated using the American Wine Society’s 20-point evaluation form. In the case of this tasting event, all of the wines were masked and tasted blind. None of the wines identities, origins, prices, etc. were known or discussed by The Crew until all five wines were tasted and scored. Additionally, each member of the Crew recorded their personal impressions and observations of each wine. It is from those evaluations and tasting notes that the content of this edition of Beneath the Cork is derived. As always, the blog is a compilation of the opinions, comments, impressions, and sometimes even lunatic rants of the members of our tasting panel, herein endeared as “The Crew”. As always, we thank them for their dedicated and tireless service!
Now…let’s see what The Crew had to say after blind-tasting this lovely bouquet of five beautiful rosés…
Château Sainte Roseline, Lampe de Méduse Rosé, Côtes de Provence, 2014
750 ml. – Retail Price – $25.99
As it turns out, this one was the “pick of the litter” (top scorer) with The Crew. The priciest of the lot, and still at a surprisingly affordable twenty-six bucks, this gorgeous wines “glistening” crystal-clear, slightly salmon to pale peach hue is simply beautiful in the glass! Its complex and intense nose offered aromas of strawberries and citrus. A mouthful of freshness with citrus tones and tart, crisp fruit flavors. This wine is rich and round and brings a very long, memorable finish. It was suggested this Rosé de Provence could be deliciously paired with the rich, oily, delicate flavors of chilled smoked salmon or the earthy, salty sharp moldiness of a cave-aged bleu cheese.
AVERAGE SCORE – 18.4/20 points – HIGHEST SCORE OF THE FLIGHT
Château Castel des Maures, Rosé Cuvée Jeanne, Côtes de Provence, 2014
750 ml – Retail Price – $17.99
A slightly darker and “redder” salmon pink color, the Cuvée Jeanne is a much more “subtle” set of flavors and aromas. With a dry and fruity mid-weight mouth-feel, it surprises with an elegantly long finish. Interestingly, The Crew suggested a BROAD array of food pairings for this wine; ranging from a classic Spinach Salad to the saltiness of Prosciutto and goat cheese. I wasn’t alone in my assertion that this bottle could easily cozy up to a robustly seasoned and moderately spicy plate of barbecue (…like earlier, I’m thinking of a rack of “Memphis-dust” spicy dry-rubbed baby back ribs!).
AVERAGE SCORE – 17.6/20 points
Marques de Caceres Dry Rose – Rioja, Spain
750ml – Retail Price – $12.99
This Rioja Rosado is a bright, coral pink in color with a medium texture. Overtones of red currants, a hint of licorice, and spring flowers, along with what appears to be elevated alcohol are prevalent in the nose. Four out of six of The Crew also found, believe it or not, hints of watermelon in the aroma of this bottle! With a bigger and richer mouth feel, this one invites full-flavored food pairings like sausage pizza and Cuban-style pork, the majority of The Crew agreed that they’d be perfectly happy simply quaffing this one solo on the porch or patio on a warm afternoon!
AVERAGE SCORE – 15.2/20 points
Silverado Vineyards, Sangiovese Rosato, 2014 – Stags Leap District, Napa
750ml – Retail Price – $24.99
From some of the most expensive vineyard real estate in North America, this gorgeous bottle of wine is adorned in the most vividly crystalline “Hot Pink” color of the entire flight. The Silverado Sangiovese Rosato is a massive explosion of exotic fresh wild-strawberry aromas combined with bold, brilliant RED fruit flavors. It’s fresh-fruit light sweetness lingers on a long, luscious finish. This is one pretty bottle of wine ! (Note: two “OMG”s and three “EXCELLENT”s appeared in the The Crews comments/tasting notes!) And as for food pairings, they were all over the board! Listen to this…blackened grilled fish…Sriracha-grilled shrimp…grilled rare ribeye…crab legs…(are you seeing a trend here?) “Og have fire…Og have meat and sharp stick…Og HUNGRY! Let’s EAT!” This wine seems to have awakened whatever primal carnivorous urges that may have been lying in a repressed state with The Crew! And I have to agree…while this is a stunning “stand-alone” bottle of wine, it BEGS for some great food pairings! And still, once again, put me down for the barbecue!
AVERAGE SCORE – 17.6/20 points
Alma Negra, Malbec Sparkling Rosé , Mendoza, Argentina, 2009
750ml – Retail Price – $16.99
OK…call me a sucker for bubbles, but I’m old-fashioned that way…there’s NOTHING like finishing with a SPARKLER! The steady stream of elegant, perfectly formed rose-pink bubbles in this pretty bottle of wine were almost mesmerizing! Loaded with complex aromas of strawberries and raspberries, there was also a soft undertone of fresh flowers (blossoms) in the nose. The intense fruit in the mouth is perfectly balanced with soft acidity and light toastiness that brought a warmth of elegance and softness to a velvety texture. As for food pairings, I’m guessing The Crew was starting to get hungry on me as we finished this last wine. A consensus agreed that this pretty sparkler is absolutely wonderful…all by itself! But it would be right at home with an assortment of fresh fruits, cheeses, and crusty, yeasty breads. Somebody even suggested simply “Italian…you know…like baked ziti!” I’d be willing to try that…or maybe…ummm….barbecue!
AVERAGE SCORE – 16.1/20 points
And there you have it…a wrap on our version of “Five Shades of Pink”! Five LOVELY bottles of rosé and eight opinions! (As we’ve said all along, It’s a tough job, but SOMEBODY has to do it!) Swirled, sloshed, splashed, and swilled by another fabulous bunch of we call the Crew. Now it’s YOUR TURN! We hope you’ll try one (or ALL) of these beautiful wines!
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Finally, as always, we close with our standard (although, admittedly, somewhat less-than-original) caveat…“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”