Beneath The Cork

BENEATH THE CORK, SUMMER 2023 

Welcome to BeneathTheCork.com.and our SUMMER ‘23 EDITION!  BeneathTheCork.com is all about the celebration of wine and food and the inherent magic of pairing the two TOGETHER! Most importantly, we’re always delighted to share some great wines and even a wine-friendly recipe or two (or three) you’ll definitely want to try!. We’re confident you’ll savor each and every nibble and sip, and we hope you’ll tell us about your experiences with the wines and recipes here at BeneathTheCork.com! We also wouldn’t want you to miss a single edition! Be sure to SUBSCRIBE so you’ll see every new edition of  BeneathTheCork.com as it’s released! Look for the “Subscribe” option along the right side of this blog page, then simply enter your name and email address, then click “SUBSCRIBE”. Easy Peasy!   

THE WINE IN SPAIN STAYS MAINLY…(umm…clearly, poetry just isn’t my ride…) 
Galicia, in northwestern Spain can certainly be characterized as “coastal” with the Atlantic Ocean as its western border and the Cantabrian Sea as the northern border.  Galicia’s Rías Baixas DO (Denominación de Origen) has long been exalted as the ultimate soil and climate for growing the Albarino grape variety. It is believed that the Albariño grape was introduced to the area in the 12th century by the Cistercian monks of the Monastery of Armenteira. This aromatic white grape is revered for its high acidity, refreshing citrus and rich stone fruit flavors, dry tastes, and subtle saltiness. Likely attributable to its Oceanic climate and coastal geology, the crisp Albariño wines of Rias Baixas pair magically with all manner of seafood and shellfish, but especially with shrimp!  

The landscape of the Rias Baixas (pronounced ree’-az bay’-shus) DO is dominated by dramatic coastline, rocky fiords, and lush, green hills and forests. Its granite soils provide superb drainage for vineyards. Directly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, Rias Baixas is one of the wettest wine growing regions in Spain with annual rainfall of over 67 inches (more than twice that of, either the Napa and Sonoma AVA’s in California). 

I’m a sucker for the “back-label story” found on many wines. The legacy of the Pazo Das Bruxas Albariño is no exception with its rich fairytale notions of the influence of ancient Galician witches in this delicious bottle! Says Napa wine importers Wilson-Daniels… 

“In  old country houses known as ‘pazos’, surrounded by forests and vineyards, Galician witches  conjured up spirits through magic and dance. And so the sap, the lifeblood, coursed through  the vines, filling them with vitality. Like the Albariño grapes that give birth to this wine.“

Fairy tale or not, I couldn’t agree more! In a word, “VITALITY” most succinctly expresses the crisp, flavorfully complex vibrancy of this delicious white wine that is the 2020 Pazo Das Bruxas Albariño.  As always, we went wine-hunting with our friends at our neighborhood Green’s Beverage Store . It’s a pleasure to visit a wine store with an ENORMOUS SELECTION like Greens’. And there’s an added  BONUS at all three of the Green’s Beverage Stores around metro Columbia…their friendly and professional wine team members actually know what they’re talking about! Now THAT IS refreshing! 

THE 2020 VINTAGE, IN THE RIAS BAIXAS D.O.
Temperatures during the vineyard’s 2020 growth cycle were higher than the year previous,  but normalized during the grape ripening period. In terms of precipitation, it rained considerably less until August, after which rainfall was more abundant, and cumulative precipitation was higher than that recorded for the same period in 2019. 

VARIETAL COMPOSITION 
100% Albariño 

VINIFICATION 
Fermented in stainless steel under controlled temperature for 16 days with only two hours of skin contact. Bottled in May 2021. 

WINEMAKER’S TECHNICAL DETAILS: 
Alcohol by Volume: 13% 
pH: 3.24 
Total Acidity: 6.8 g/L 
Residual Sugar: 1.2 g/L 

TASTING NOTES: 
Brilliant pale gold color. Delicate and fragrant, with fine floral, lime blossom and lemon  marmalade notes. Silky and savory on the palate, elegantly structured.

OUR FOOD PAIRINGS  
It’s often said that pairing foods that are indigenous to a wine’s region of origin is nearly always a success! In that light, nothing seemed a more perfect choice for a summer weekend supper with good friends and a lovely wine than this combo: 

THE MENU
~ Citrus & Herb Marinated Shrimp Grilled on Rosemary Skewers 
~ Baked Mediterranean Rice with Tomato, Spinach, Feta
~ Chilled Alderwood-smoked Asparagus bundled in a Prosciutto wrap
 ~ And, the STAR OF THE SHOW,  Pazo Das Bruxas Albariño, 2020  

I have to admit, while I was, at first, skeptical, the rosemary skewering technique imparted the ideal amount of that distinctly aromatic and pungent herbaceousness of this often too-powerful would-be evergreen…it was JUST RIGHT!  

And what better way to serve a perfectly grilled skewer of succulent shrimp than atop a bed of rich and flavorful baked Mediterranean Rice. This delightful melange adds a smorgasbord of palate-pleasing flavors like grape tomatoes, baby spinach, kalamata olives, and a sprinkle of rich and tangy feta cheese.The plate is not only a symphony of flavors, but it’s a rainbow of eye-pleasing color contrasts!  

We chose to finish the plate with a chilled bundle of alderwood-smoked asparagus all wrapped up in a prosciutto blanket, and dressed with a sprinkle of capers and grated Reggiano Parmigiano and a wedge of lemon! A note of caution; GO EASY ON THE SMOKE! Those delicate asparagus spears take to smoke like a potato takes to salt! A little goes a LONG WAY!  

THE RECIPES

GRILLED CITRUS & HERB SHRIMP ON ROSEMARY SKEWERS
YIELD: 6 Servings
PREP: 30 min. MARINATE: 2 – 3 hrs. COOK: 8 – 10 min. 

INGREDIENTS 
FOR THE SHRIMP
6 STURDY stems of fresh rosemary, leaves intact 
30.(about 2½ lbs.) Jumbo shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails off
FOR THE MARINATE
½ c. fresh basil leaves, packed & chopped, plus more for garnish
¼ c. fresh oregano leaves, chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes, crushed
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp. lemon zest, finely minced
½ c. freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ c. EVOO
2 lemon, vertically quartered wedges, for serving

You’ll thread five marinated shrimp onto each skewer. (I used an ice pick to create a centered guide hole in the middle of each shrimp to avoid tearing them up in the process. And here’s a GAME-CHANGER COOKING TIP…the skewers of shrimp can be difficult to navigate over a hot grill.

I used a handled wire grill basket with a locking top cover ($17 at Amazon) to cook eight skewers of shrimp in a SNAP! The grill basket held the skewers firmly in place and made it possible to turn all of the skewers at once with one easy motion. Grab the handle, turn the basket 180º, and VOILA! 

COOKING NOTE
You’ll need to use rosemary stems stiff/sturdy enough to skewer 5 shrimp on each skewer. The rosemary skewers will dial up the flavor! Simply cut a wedge point on the sprig at the thick end of the skewer, then strip most of the leaves from the stem, leaving about a half-inch of rosemary leaves on the skinny end of the skewer. 

Also, remember to work quickly…if you’ve cooked much seafood, you know it cools down VERY quickly! Get ‘em grilled, and get ‘em plated!   

This will work with any size shrimp; just adjust the cooking time accordingly. 

STEP 1 – Remove most of the rosemary leaves from each skewer, leaving about a half inch of leaves at the top (save leaves for another recipe!). Soak skewers in cold water for at least 2 hours or overnight if possible. That’ll keep your sticks from burning! 

STEP 2 – In a large mixing bowl, combine the chopped fresh basil and oregano leaves with the garlic, red pepper flakes, freshly ground black pepper, lemon zest, lemon juice, and the EVOO. Whisk to combine well, then pour it into a 1 gallon Ziploc bag with the shrimp. Seal the bag tightly and toss them in the fridge to marinate for a couple of hours. Also, try to remember to flip the bag of shrimp once or twice while they’re marinating.  

STEP 3 – Drain rosemary skewers and cut a wedge point on the thick end of each skewer. The point makes it easier to thread five shrimp onto each skewer. 

STEP 4 – Heat your grill to HIGH (…or as my friend Tommy would say, “Set it to the ‘Raise HELL setting)!  When the grill is hot, place your grill basket directly on the grill surface and cook the shrimp until just opaque in the center, about 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the whole works and grill the other side for about 4 to 5 minutes or until they’re cooked nicely.  

TO SERVE: Serve immediately with lemon wedges and a sprinkle of fresh chiffonade basil on a bed of Baked Mediterranean Rice (recipe follows).  

BAKED MEDITERRANEAN RICE 
PREP: 20 mins COOK: 30 mins TOTAL:50 mins
YIELD: 6 – 8 servings:

INGREDIENTS
1 c. Arborio rice
½ c. Orzo pasta 
½ c. sweet or yellow onion, chopped
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
3 c. reduced sodium chicken broth
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh oregano, or 2 teaspoons dried
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil, or 2 teaspoons dried
1 tsp. kosher salt, or to taste
1½ c. grape tomatoes, halved 
½ c. pitted Kalamata olives, sliced 
1 c. shredded mozzarella or Italian blend cheese
4 oz. baby spinach, stem tips removed, coarsely chopped
¼ c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
¼ c. Feta cheese, crumbled 
¼ c. chopped fresh parsley, (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

STEP 1 – Preheat the oven to 375º F. Coat an 11 x 13-inch glass or ceramic casserole dish with butter-flavored Pam™ or other vegetable spray.

STEP 2 – Add the rice, orzo, and chopped onions to the casserole. Add melted butter and stir until all is coated well.

STEP 3 – In a mixing bowl, stir the oregano, basil, and salt into the chicken broth. Pour over the rice, then evenly place the halved grape tomatoes over the top.

STEP 5 – Bake at 375ºF for 30 minutes or until the rice is al dente.

Remove from the oven and fold the mozzarella cheese, the chopped baby spinach, and the sliced kalamata olives into the hot rice until it’s evenly distributed. Top with the grated Parmesan and feta cheeses and the parsley.

STEP 6 – Cover with foil and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. To serve, plate as the bed for the shrimp skewers. 

CHILLED PROSCIUTTO WRAPPED ALDERWOOD SMOKED ASPARAGUS BUNDLES
YIELD: 6 servings 

INGREDIENTS
24 fresh Asparagus spears, medium-thick (about 1lb.) 
1 tsp. EVOO
1 tsp. kosher salt
¼ tsp. freshly ground white pepper
6 thin, wide slices Prosciutto 
1 Tbsp. Capers, drained 
2 Tbsp. Pecorino Romano, grated  
6 lemon quarter-wedges 

INSTRUCTIONS
STEP 1 – Prep the asparagus by snapping the stem end as low as possible. Rinse the asparagus in cold water and dry on paper towels. Place the asparagus in a large bowl and drizzle with the EVOO, salt, and pepper. Coat the spears completely using your hands to massage the EVOO into the asparagus. Using heavy-duty aluminum foil, fashion a sturdy “tray” in which to smoke the asparagus. Place the asparagus in the tray.  

STEP 2 – Heat smoker to 225 degrees F. with an ounce or two of Alder wood chunks. GO EASY…a little smoke goes a long way on asparagus! Place the tray of asparagus on the center rack of the smoker and allow to smoke for about an hour or until tender crisp. 

STEP 3 – Remove asparagus from the smoker and transfer the spears directly from the foil tray to a loaf pan. Tightly cover with foil and chill immediately for at least two hours.

STEP 4 – Wrap 4 spears of the chilled smoked asparagus in Prosciutto, wrapping on the bias so as to cover all of the asparagus but the heads. Center each bundle on a salad plate and garnish with ½ tsp. grated Pecorino Romano cheese and a few capers. Finish each salad plate with a quarter-wedge of lemon. Cover the salad plates loosely with cling wrap, and return to the fridge until ready to serve chilled.

I know you’re wondering, and the answer is “Yes, there was an appetizer and a dessert!” Both were decadent treats from an old fave, The Mediterranean Tea Room in Columbia. The appetizer was hummus with kalamatas and pita bread wedges. The dessert was a properly decadent, over-sized chunk of AMAZING old-school Baklava! 

And there ya’ have it…that’s a WRAP! Until next time, we close with some sage words of advice from an old friend,…”If you always open your BEST bottle of wine first, you’ll never have to open your worst bottle of wine!” 

Ne’er have truer words been spoken, Mister Bill! Let’s EAT!   

Photo Credits: T. Wayne Lybrand 

Welcome to BeneathTheCork.com, the “Phoenix Edition”! Yes, my wine-loving friends, we emerge from the mythical “ashes” after an all too-long hiatus. This, our first “post-pandemic” tome, like the crocus poking through the snow-mound in spring, promises new growth, a glimmer of happiness, and lots of relaxing reads about our favorite topics, wonderful wines and festive foods! Join us now for our Spring 2023 adventure, “Rosés are Pink, Ham is Pink, Poetry is Hard!” 

A couple of weeks ago, as usual, standing in our kitchen, pouring a second glass of Chardonnay, our friend Liz shared her most recent “crisis”. We’d been talking about pairing different wines and foods after I’d commented that the citrusy-tart Chardonnay we were drinking would be extraordinary with something fried…maybe a box of Bojangles chicken or some crispy fish and shrimp from Popeyes! That’s when Liz (…and I swear, she had the look of abject PANIC on her face) announced that she was terrified that it was “her turn” to host her husband Bob’s family, three siblings and their spouses, for Easter Dinner this year. Liz said she’d pointed out to her husband that growing up in Colorado, her family had always served lamb for their traditional Easter Dinner. Bob laughed and jokingly told her that nobody in his “…suth’n family would know a lamb if one walked up and BIT ‘EM!” Yes, he told her he REALLY wanted baked ham for this year’s Easter feast! And THAT, my friends, was the source of Miz Liz’s panic attack! As we opened a second bottle of Chardonnay, it became evident that Liz was hoping for more than just a good ham recipe, she said she’d really appreciate some “…knock their SOCKS OFF…” wine pairings’ to go with the ham!  

I’ve always found it fascinating how often “coincidence” and “need” will meet head-on going opposite directions on the same path! As it happened, just a few days before the “ham conversation”, another “wine-buddy” of ours had told us about a couple of, as he called them, “Killer Rosés”. I, for one, have long thought that hams of just about any kind and rosé wines share a great deal of “sympatico”. After all, the broad range of pink hues found in different ham preparations cozy right up to the beautiful rainbow of pinks shared with the world’s most luscious Rosé, Rosato, and Rosado offerings. Not to mention how the slightly sweet, slightly salty, slightly smoky flavors of a succulent baked ham pair so masterfully with many delicately light, fragrantly floral, and tantalizingly tasty pink wines! 

Next step, a trip to the wine shop! We happen to frequent the Green’s store on Piney Grove Road. (…Green’s has two other stores in Columbia, as well as stores all over SC & GA). We’ve come to enjoy wine-shopping there because of their excellent selection of wines from wineries we’ve actually “HEARD OF OR READ ABOUT”. Add to that, our Green’s store is close and conveniently “on-the-way” to lots of other places on our usual to-do list. We also enjoy perusing their GI-NORMEOUS selection of wines and appreciate great prices and  helpful, knowledgeable, and friendly folks at their stores.  Did that just sound like a commercial? LOL! Well, I guess it sorta was…we REALLY do find their stores the best in town! Check ‘em out and you’ll see why we like shopping at Green’s! Anyhoo…after a perfunctory search, we located the two rosés our friend had so profoundly suggested we try, and with a couple of bottles each in hand, we were off to taste some wine and find the perfect EASTER HAM RECIPE! 

As we always do here at BeneathTheCork.com, let’s take a look at our  “Wine Finds” first, then we’ll dive into the subject of the PERFECT EASTER HAM RECIPE we found to pair oh-so-perfectly with our pretty, pink picks!  Oh…and one more thing we hope you’ll find as pleasantly surprising as we did…the beautiful rosé wines we feature here are BOTH Certified Organic as well as biodynamically and sustainably farmed. Wow…who knew that even PINK WINES CAN BE GREEN! 

Château des Annibals Coteaux Varois en Provence Rosé 2020 – $22.99 

“Suivez moi, jeune Homme”

TECH & TASTING NOTES – J.P. Bourgeois, Ltd. 
Appellation: AOC Coteaux Varois en Provence 
Terroir: Center of Provence, clayish and chalky soils, south facing
Elevation: 1000 feet
Farming: Certified Organic
Blend: 55% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 5% Rolle (Ugni Blanc)
Aging: 6 months in stainless steel tanks
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0% 

“Winemaker Nathalie Coquelle’s classic Provence rosé is a coppery salmon color that’s as striking in its depth as its exuberant nose of raspberry, lime, mint, and warm sand.

Its organic viticulture and pedigree as the oldest winery in the appellation show on the unusually rich palate of strawberries and blueberries, with a crystalline minerality that lends freshness heading into the persistent, red-berried finish. A superb and legendary rosé from this entirely solar-powered and certified organic winery.”

BENEATHTHECORK.COM NOTES – Dan Hanfland

They say it kills cats! Not the wine, silly…CURIOSITY! The French phrase printed under the wine’s name on the front label was as intriguing to me as was the content of this beguiling bottle of Rosé du Provence! In spite of my modest (tenth-grade) French vocabulary skills, this one wasn’t hard to decipher… “Suivez Moi,  Jeune Homme!” literally means “Follow Me, Young Man!” As with all catchy and mysterious comments on wine bottles, I knew there HAD to be a back-story to this one, too. So, after a little research, I was able to find its charming origin. Here it is… 

“This name was inspired by a true-to-life tradition in 17th-century French fashion, in which women would wear hats with two pieces of lace dangling down onto the small of their back. The young men would “follow behind” the women, entranced by the beautiful lace floating behind them as they walked.”

Charming story, ain’t it!? And after tasting this charming bottle of wine, I, like the young men following the beautiful lace, am inclined to “Follow That Bottle!” We were impressed enough that we went back and got two more bottles! I’d urge you to give it a try. 

RATING: 4.5 BTC STARS 

Ostatu Rosado, Alavesa, Rioja 2021 – $16.99 

TECH & TASTING NOTES – Bodegas Ostatu, Samaniego, Rioja, España 
Appellation: DOC: Rioja Alavesa
Terroir: Soil: Stony clay calcareous and limestone
Elevation: 1950 – 2200 feet
Farming: Certified Organic
Vine Age: 20 – 60 years old
Blend: 70% Tempranillo, 27% Garnacha, 3% Viura
Alcohol by Volume: 13.0% 

Vinification: “Manually harvested, the pressing is followed by a short maceration. The wine is cold-fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and left on the lees for 37 days prior to cold stabilization, diatomaceous earth filtering, and finally, bottling”

“The secret lies in the high-altitude, bush-trained vineyards of indigenous tempranillo, garnacha, and viura vines in the foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria mountains. Theirs is a singular mountain rosé produced from some of Ostatu’s oldest and highest-elevation vineyards in the village of Samaniego: La Paul, Valdepedro, and Carrera at 600m to 650m. Samaniego is located directly at the convergence of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean climatic influences, which mold the character of the vintages. This unique soil and climate also lend a certain austerity and structure to Ostatu wines, which differentiates them from the Rioja wines of other subzones. Ostatu is pure Alavesa mountain wine, born of the tension and energy of an extreme climate.” 

“Intense aroma of red fruits (strawberries, raspberries, currants), some citrus signs (orange peel) and fine minerality. Very fresh and balanced on the palate, very good acidity, greasy and with dimension. Alive, ending with a great balance of flavours, fruitiness and warmth.” 

BENEATHTHECORK.COM NOTES – Dan Hanfland

Our friend was SPOT ON when he said this wine would strike our fancies! The Ostatu might just be one of the most refreshing and engaging rosé wines I’ve tasted in a LONG TIME! A real value where the price/quality XY-graph score LARGE!  

RATING: 4.6 BTC STARS 

“Did ya hear the one about the farmer whose pig had a wooden leg?” Never mind…let’s talk about the MOST AMAZING HAM ‘N ROSÉ PAIRING EVER! 

I have a few “unorthodox” thought processes (NOOOO! SAY IT AIN’T SO, PA!”) Yes, it’s true…most folks like to start with “food first”, then select their wine pairings to compliment their food’s flavor components. NOPE! NOT ME! NO, SIREE!  I am prone to do EXACTLY  the opposite. In fact. I prefer to taste the wines I’ve selected FIRST, then find or create the recipe/preparation that’ll best compliment my wine selections! As I see it, it’s easy enough to “tweak” or “adjust” the flavors and seasonings for the preparation of an entreé. The wine, on the other hand, is a “fixed entity”...it is what it is and there just ain’t no changin’ it! Call it “Cork-dork Dyslexia” if you like, it just makes more sense to me…change the things that you actually CAN change to compliment the things you can’t change! So…now that more of my foibles and idiosyncrasies have been exposed to the world, let’s talk about the flavors I wanted to go after for this rosé ‘n ham odyssey. 

We’d opened the first bottle of each of our two beautiful rosé treasures and had a pretty good idea almost immediately of their personalities and how they were going to play with the other kids in the sandbox! Given both of their “gentle but lively” personalities, I wanted to go after  some “bigger, bolder” spice flavors for our ham. Mind you, nothing so outspoken that it’d  cover up the delicate flavors of the rosés, but something to crank up a little “contrast”. That’s when spicy mustard came to mind! But it would also require a little “sweet” to diffuse edgy tones of the yellow-stuff!  Follow along…it’ll make more sense once you see ALL the flavors in our ham recipe…     

First things first…right about now, you’re probably asking yourself “Just exactly what kinda SPECIAL, EXOTIC HAM is this AMAZING PAIRING PROJECT gonna require?” The beauty, my wine-slurping friends, is…it ain’t nothin’ special AT ALL! We simply used a plain ol’,’ off-the-shelf” grocery store version of a hickory-smoked,  spiral-sliced, bone-in ham! In fact, the one we acquired at our friendly neighborhood Food Lion was almost exactly 8 pounds on the money, which was WAY MORE THAN A GRACIOUS PLENTY for the six folks around our “easter” table (especially considering all the AMAZING SIDES we teamed up to put with it!)

The REAL MAGIC of the ham is a duopoly. The first of the pair is, the “ZEN OF HAM”,   shared with me by a wise old country cook! This is the Rosetta Stone…the single-most vital key to “ham-wisdom”…the best thing ever shared from the “old ones” Ready? Pay attention…here goes! 

STEP 1 – When you get your beautiful hickory-smoked, spiral-sliced, bone in ham home from the market, feel the packaging for a soft, pillow-like lump. Find the clear-plastic pouch filled with thick, gooey, Crayola-red glop, gently slide it out of the packaging, and CHUCK IT DIRECTLY INTO THE TRASH! There’s nothing good, tasty, healthy, or appealing about it’s contents…they are a conglomeration of high-fructose corn sweeteners, artificial fruit flavors, red-dye #40, and a list of chemical additives and preservatives that reads like the Periodic Table of Elements! THAT, my friends, is the “ZEN OF HAM”! The second part of the “REAL MAGIC” is the amazing recipe we unearthed on the worldwide web, surprisingly touting a product I remember from my childhood! I recall this small, square yellow tin that graced my mother’s pantry shelf. The front of the box read Colman’s of Norwich. Founded in Norwich, England, 1814. Colman’s is the CLASSIC dry English-style mustard that stakes claim as the other half of our delicious pairing! 

Here’s the recipe! 

BROWN SUGAR & ENGLISH MUSTARD GLAZED HAM

YIELD: 10 – 14 servings

PREP: 30 min COOK: 12 min. PER POUND 

INGREDIENTS
1 – 8 – 10 pound hickory-smoked, spiral-sliced, bone-in ham
¼ c. pineapple juice 
2 Tbsp. Colman’s™ dry “English-style” mustard powder 

FOR THE GLAZE
½ c pineapple juice
½ c. dark brown sugar
2 Tbsp. prepared yellow mustard
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
¼ tsp. freshly ground white pepper

DIRECTIONS

PREP – Get the ham out of the fridge about an hour ahead of time to start to come to room temperature. Preheat oven to 325°F. 

STEP 1 – Combine Colman’s Dry Mustard powder and ¼ c. of pineapple juice in a mixing bowl and whisking until thoroughly combined in solution, then brush the mixture over all surfaces of your ham. Place the ham flat side down in a roasting pan on a shallow rack. NOTE: Be sure to remove the little plastic disk thingy from the ham!) Pour any remaining mustard solution over the ham, then cover the ham tightly with aluminum foil. Bake at 325ºF. for 12 minutes per pound of ham weight.

STEP 2 – While waiting for ham to bake, combine glaze ingredients, whisk thoroughly, and bring to a boil. Then turn the heat down to a simmer for 5 to 7 minutes. 

STEP 3 – About 15 minutes before the end of your calculated baking time, remove the ham from the oven and brush the surface of the ham with your glaze. Return ham to the oven uncovered until the glaze is caramelized and cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the ham from the oven and allow it to rest for 15 minutes.  Transfer to a serving platter and serve. 

FOR SERVING – Stir a few tablespoons of  prepared mustard together with a little pineapple juice in a condiment bowl  for serving with your ham and break out those beautiful bottles of rosé! 

In case you’re wondering about those other sides we mentioned serving with this tremendous Ham ‘n Rosé Pairing. We kept it simple…Cheesy Scalloped Potatoes, Suth’n-style Country Green Beans, Deviled Eggs, Crusty Rosemary bread. Ann broke the ice with an amazing Hot Artichoke Dip for pre-dinner noshing with wines, and Marie NAILED IT with a fabulous ol’ fashioned Blueberry Pie with Ice Cream!  How’s that for a proper “EASTER DINNER DRESS REHEARSAL”! 

So there ya’ have it. That’s a wrap! Until next time, we close, as always, with the words of the late, great Mr. Bill Tuller…”If you always open your BEST bottle of wine first, you’ll never have to open your worst bottle of wine!”  I agree, Bill! It’s ALL good! 

“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

Photo Credits: T. Wayne Lybrand

A little over a year ago, we spent a sunny spring Saturday, wandering around the many vineyard and winery treasures in North Carolina’s Swan Creek AVA. Even though we’d visited many of the properties in Swan Creek, it had been a while, so we set our sights on visiting a relatively new gemstone in the Swan Creek crown, Midnight Magdalena Vineyards. When we arrived at their shimmering new, bright and welcoming new “Tasting House”, we were greeted by Owner, Jim Zimmer. I have to admit, I thought I knew a lot about wine grapes with 20+ years in the industry and 40+ years as a devout oenophile, but, behold, I found a new grape! And it’s fast gaining a place on my “most favorite” list, too! Jim turned us on to a remarkable variety, a vinicultural masterpiece developed by Cornell University called Corot Noir. 

As the first winery to plant this exciting grape hybrid in North Carolina, Midnight Magdalena has truly “..hit it out of the park”! With it’s beautifully light body and gentle tannin profile, the red-fruit flavors make a “foodies” mind reel with possibilities! MMV’s Corot Noir is a testament to the quality, craftsmanship, and painstaking patience that’s evident in their whole portfolio. This Corot Noir has proven itself as a superstar pairing with some of our food-faves! More about the food link coming, but first, here’s what some of the experts have to say about this new and exciting phenom called Corot Noir…

MidnightMagdalena.com says…
“Such a dark wine, it surprises you with its light body and soft tannins. Smooth is the only way to describe this wine, with flavors of cherry and dark fruits. A medium finish that lingers just long enough to make you want more!” 

And here’s the “inside-skinny” on the development of this delicious newcomer to the Tarheel State Wine scene. From everything we’re seeing so far, the Corot Noir grape is here to stay!

from Wikipedia.com
Corot noir is a Hybrid grape variety for use in red wine production. It was developed by grape breeder Bruce Reisch at the Cornell University New York State Agricultural Experiment Station and released on July 7, 2006.

Corot noir is the result of a cross between hybrids Seyve Villard 18-307 and Steuben in 1970. It ripens mid-season to late-season, and according to Reisch, its wines “are free of the hybrid aromas typical of many other red hybrid grapes, and can be used for varietal wine production or for blending. The distinctive red wine has a deep red color and attractive berry and cherry fruit aromas”.

from WineSearcher.com
“Corot Noir is a dark-skinned red grape variety developed by Cornell University in New York. It is an interspecific crossing (hybrid) of Seyve-Villard 18-307 and Steuben.

Corot Noir grapes make intensely colored red wine with cherry-like aromas and none of the foxy aromas often associated with hybrids, particularly those with Vitis labrusca parentage. In this regard it bears certain similarities to Chambourcin, a Franco-American hybrid of uncertain parentage, which also has Seyve and Seibel hybridization in its genetic history.

A variety purpose-built to survive in cooler continental climates with harsh winters, Corot Noir has proven well suited to viticulture across the northeastern states of America, from Pennsylvania and New York (most notably in Finger Lakes) to Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. It also has good resistance to vine diseases and fungal infections, including powdery mildew and botrytis.

Corot Noir was developed alongside other hybrids at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, NY. Noiret was one of these, and also has Steuben as one of its parents. Corot tends to give more generous yields than its half-brother, although it has smaller berries, making its wines slightly more tannic with greater color intensity. 

Food matches for Corot Noir include roasted leg of lamb with oregano and mint, and spaghetti Bolognese.”

Beneath the Cork’s recommended food pairing…GRILL-SEARED SOUS VIDE LAMB CHOPS WITH WILD MOREL RISOTTO

Wanna know what else the Midnight Magdalena Corot Noir ABSOLUTELY ROCKS with? Grill-seared sous vide lamb chops with wild morel risotto! Yes, indeedy, my hungry buddies! Corot is the BOMB with lamb seasoned simply with a sprig of rosemary, salt, and freshly cracked black pepper! The slightly tart cherry notes of this wine are truly a match made in heaven with the rich texture and supple flavors of perfectly cooked medium-rare lamb and the creamy, woodsy flavors of the morel risotto. If you’d like the recipe for either, reach out to me…I’ll happily share them with you instead of taking up space here with lengthy recipes and instructions. 

Meanwhile, here’s a recommendation…next time you find yourself looking for a close and easy weekend get-away, make the short sojourn up I-77 to Midnight Magdalena Vineyards. Not only will you be charmed with the beauty of their vineyards and “Tasting House”, but you’ll be blown away by the across-the-board quality of every wine they make! (FOODY NOTE – I’ll bet you can’t taste MMV’s Rosé of Sangiovese or their Dry Riesling without visions of fabulous food pairings dancing in your head!)

And, once again, that’s a wrap!

Until next time, I close with the words of one of the late, great luminaries of the Columbia, SC wine scene. Bill Tuller used to say “If you always open your best bottle of wine first, you’ll never have to open your worst bottle of wine!”  I agree, Bill! It’s ALL good! 

And as we always say at the close of each of our Beneath the Cork posts…

“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

Retail: $16.00

From Francis Ford Coppola Wines…
“Foggy, cool-climate sourcing (“the other California”) brings out vibrant fruit character, balanced acidity and minerality in Chardonnay sourced from Mendocino, Monterey, North Coast and Sierra Foothills. Fermented in a combination of oak and stainless steel for elegance and balance.” “My grandmother, Maria Zasa, was an Italian born in French Tunisia, a woman who spoke four languages and embraced local traditions. She’d sing us little French songs about marionettes, and offer her favorite toast, “à votre santé,” or “to your health,” whenever she raised a glass of wine.”– Francis Ford Coppola

Tasting Notes
Fresh, clean aromas and flavors of stone fruit and honeysuckle with a touch of crisp crushed-gravel and petrichor mineral tones. Baking spices from subtle oak aging compliment a complex Chardonnay style.

While this California charmer is a perfect stand-alone sipper, we paired it with a light and citrusy Chicken Picatta over angel-hair pasta for a quick and easy weeknight supper. This pairing is a gigantic array of flavors and aromas! Here’s the recipe!

 Beneath the Cork’s recommended food pairing…
CHICKEN PICATTA WITH ANGEL-HAIR PASTA

Prep time:15 min., Cook time :20 min.
Yield: 2 servings

INGREDIENTS
2  5 to 6 oz. boneless skinless chicken breast cutlets
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
All-purpose flour, for dredging
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup brined capers, rinsed
1/4 c. fresh parsley, chopped
Angel hair pasta, prepared as directed

PREPARATION
~ Place chicken breasts between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound to 1/2″ thick with a rolling pin. Season chicken with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. 
~ In a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter with 3 tablespoons olive oil. When butter and oil start to sizzle, dredge the chicken pieces in flour and shake off excess, then add to the sizzling skillet and cook on the first side for about 3 minutes. When chicken is browned. Flip the pieces with tongs and cook other side for another 3 minutes. Removed chicken cutlets to a paper towel-lined plate.
~ Add the lemon juice, stock and capers to the hot pan and bring to boil, scraping up brown bits from the pan for extra flavor. Check for seasoning and simmer for four to five minutes. Return all the chicken to the pan and simmer for 5 more minutes.
~ Plate the chicken on top of pasta.  Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to sauce in the skillet and whisk vigorously. Pour sauce over chicken, then garnish with parsley. Serve immediately with a glass of that fantastic Chardonnay!

And that’s a wrap!
Until next time, as both Francis Ford Coppola’s dear old Nona and the name of this edition’s featured wine would say…“Votre Sante (To your health!)

And as we always say at the close of each of our Beneath the Cork posts…

“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

To our favorite “cluster” of sniff, swirl, ‘n savor pals…

Okay, you’re right, it’s been a long, long time since the last issue of Beneath the Cork hit your inbox. We’re BACK! and we’re back with a vengeance…and we’re sporting a WHOLE NEW LOOK!

By popular demand, Beneath the Cork is shedding our old shell and moving into a sleek and shiny, hip and happening new wine and food pairing platform!

Every new edition of Beneath the Cork will focus on one very AFFORDABLE AND AVAILABLE bottle of wine with a concise slate of tasting notes for  that wine…AND, we’re adding “kitchen-tested” wine and food pairings, ideas, and recommendation, complete with recipes, photos, and serving suggestions!

We’ll run head-first into the wide, wide world of wines while we discuss some unique fabulous and fun food pairing and preparation ideas!

We know  you’re going to enjoy this new facelift for Beneath the Cork and we look forward to seeing your feedback! Let us know if there’s a wine and food pairing you’d like to see us to explore! We also invite you to do a good deed today…and share our URL with all of your food-and-wine-fan friends!

Stay tuned for some WONDERFUL WINES and some FABULOUS FOOD PAIRINGS with Beneath the Cork! 

And remember what we always say…

“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

“A rose by any other name would smell as sweet”. This overworked and arguably misquoted ditty (depending on which version you read) from Act II, Scene II of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet may finally prove to be more prophetic than “ol’ Bill” ever dreamed possible. The reference, to borrow from Wikipedia, ”…is often used to imply that the names of things do not affect what they really are.” In the case of a certain group of wines sporting a color ranging from pale pink to flaming fuschia, names might ACTUALLY mean a lot. Take, for example, one of the many wines we know as a rosé from Provence, tucked neatly in the southeast corner of France. As luscious as a freshly plucked strawberry, floral and pretty as a newly-cut daisy, and more often than not, austere, leaning toward bone-dry with a slight but ever-so-perfectly balanced hint of fruit sweetness. Classically crafted wines with these beautiful and unmistakable “lighter-than-red” tints called rosés. hail from historic old world vineyards in France and the new world vines in the Americas as well…along with Rosadas from Spain and Portugal…Rosatos from Italy… names that speak of a group of light and lovely wines, all part of a style-set that is fast making a remarkable comeback on wine shelves the world over. We’re learning once again that treasures offer a delicious opportunity for light spring and summer sipping as well as many intriguing food pairing possibilities. For example, we very recently discovered a tasty, mid-bodied Washington State  rosé blend of malbec and syrah! The amazing color JUMPED off the shelf to grab our attention! As it happens, we’ve found it to be the absolute BOMB with Memphis-style dry-rub baby back ribs! Seriously, there’s no end to the culinary possibilities when pairing rosés with foods.

We couldn’t think of a better flight of wines for this edition with Valentine’s Day just a day away and romance in the air! And with splashes of vivid pink popping up around every corner, what better time to taste (and talk about!) these beautiful pink pleasers we call rosé!

As a rule. most wineries release their newly bottled rosés in the spring for immediate spring and summer consumption. With their easy, light-sipping, and softly delicious styles, rosés pair nicely with a wide array of the foods of Spring and Summer, but it’s certainly no surprise that the more astute wine drinker is beginning to find  rosé a delightful “lighter alternative” all year round.

So…let’s ask the question again…”What’s in a name?” For a little insight, we look a little closer at the stark contrast between the softly fragrant and elegantly subtle French rosés  like the one just described…AND…the more recent versions of coral-hued, extraordinarily SWEET wines which have, perhaps unfairly, been accused of giving “all things pink” a bad rap! It all began in the early eighties, and, of course, we’re talking about that new scourge of the wine biz, ”White Zinfandel” aka; White Zin (quickly accompanied by a cadre of other sugary-sweet wines in the newly coined “blush-wine” category. Wines with names like “White (insert red wine varietal grape name here)…these overtly sweet, hot pink residual sugar-blasters hit the streets like modern-day designer fragrances… and they’ve been taking hostages ever since. Much to the consternation of the sophisticated “serious dry wine crowd” (many of whom admittedly take ourselves WAY too seriously at times), the new “blush wine” category was here to stay! These super-sugary, often soda-poppy new pinks managed to, as it turns out, perform a HUGE service for an otherwise ho-hum and, at that moment in the ‘mid-eighties, a slow-growing table wine industry. Oh…and by the way this all took place at almost exactly the same moment that the even more deeply-despised “wine-cooler” market was beginning to grasp the attention of new consumers! These new “party pinks” as so many in the “Pinot-pundit wine writer” community nicknamed them, actually did something MAGICAL for the wine industry! They single-handedly brought hundreds of thousands of so-called “pop-wine” (ie; Boones Farm, Annie Green Springs, Tyvola, Bali Hai, etc.) drinkers voluntarily to the newly expanded altar of “table wines”. Yes, dear friends, the newly labeled “blush wine” category played a pivotal role in the meteoric growth of the varietal table wine industry we know today. It accomplished this feat by serving as a “taste/style bridge” between the then popular pop-wine category and the more respected and “legitimate” (and WAY more profitable) varietal table category which included the likes of riesling, pinot grigio, moscato, merlot, etc. Many of these varietal wines may not be enjoying their current success had it not been for the blush wine category’s magical “bridge-trick”!

So…how do we define that fine pink line between “rose” and “blush”? Begin by asking your wine merchant the simple question ”Is it dry/dryer?” After that, do a little research. Do a little “rosé reading”…ya gotta love the internet, right? (And here’s a quick and reliable rosé tip…when in doubt, you can’t go wrong with virtually ANY of the wines of Provence in France. While that may be “just MY opinion” check out the comments and scores the first two wines (both from Provence) garnered from our Crew later in this article!). A LOT of retail shelf space is now occupied by a virtual smorgasbord of rosés ranging from lightly fruity to elegant, austere, nearly bone-dry. They’re more popular than ever in today’s bustling retail wine market! Oh…and here’s another great surprise…you don’t have to knock over a liquor store to afford them!

One of the more astonishing bits of information stumbled upon during this writing has to do with rosés’ remarkable affordability. If, for example, your “bucket-list” includes the ability to one day be able to afford a bottle of “the most expensive rosé on planet Earth , you shouldn’t have to wait very long AND you won’t have to spend what a lot of folks would consider “a lot of money”! In fact, according to Forbes Magazine’s March 25, 2015 article, “The Most expensive Rosé in the World”, two wines, both from Chateau D’Esclans in France’s Côtes de Provence, “Les Clans” at $56.99  and “Garrus” at $79.99 are the most expensive rosés in the world! How is that possible, you might ask. Especially when a not-all-that-old bottle of burgundy, a 1990 Domaine Romanee Conti currently fetches upwards of thirteen grand…or when older Sauternes and several of the first-growth bordeaux can dent your Visa card in a four-digit way? The answer is actually pretty simple… rosés (with the rare exception of Champagne Rosé) are absolutely best when they are consumed young…in the 1-3 year old range. Mind you, high-end rosé champagnes (like the case of ’64 Mumm Cordon Rosé we stumbled upon several years back) can be greatly improved by aging, a totally mind-blowing wine experience, and generally speaking, will rattle the cash register quite vigorously! But rosé “still” wines ( table wines), even the most “well-bred”, are surprisingly affordable. You should, in fact, be able to buy a bottle of world class rosé for under thirty-five bucks all day long! That’s why you don’t see offerings of “rare old rosé” in fine wine shops . By definition, “rare, old rosés” are more likely to be “declining, probably-worn-out, wines WAY past their prime”. Hence, dear wine-sipper, there’s really no collectability or age-related rarity to be had with a rosé. So…let’s review the first rule of rosé; these wines are inexpensive, fun, and delicious, provided they’re consumed YOUNG! Buy them to drink NOW! As a general rule, if the vintage date on the bottle is more than three years ago, keep looking for a newer bottle.

Let’s take a look at how rosé wines are made. There are several methods used to make rosé, but in the interest of brevity, we’ll only take a close look at the three most frequently employed winemaking techniques; bleeding, limited maceration, and pressing.

Saignée (pronounced sohn’-yay) or bleeding is the preferred method for making the highest quality rosés in many parts of the world, but most especially France. The juice is naturally pressed by placing the harvested grapes into a large tank, then allowing the weight of the grapes to do the actual “pressing”. With this method,the juice is in contact with the skins of the grapes for a very limited period of time, and the wines produced using this technique are almost always very lightly colored (with some exceptions, of course). For example, the Gris de Bourgogne from the Loire, is a pale, pretty, light and elegant rosé made using the Saignée method. The wines are complex with bold fruit characters, yet a remarkable level of “fresh-fruit” style.

Limited maceration is, by far, the most widely used rosé making method throughout the world. In fact, many of the wines of biblical and historic (think “Pharaoh”) accounts, were most likely more “rosé” than a “red”. This method, the oldest in recorded history and by far, the easiest to employ, existed long before most of the new and advanced techniques for maximized color tannin extraction. The skins of the crushed grapes are left in contact with the juice until the optimum desired color is attained. At that time, the juice is pumped (or drained) off of the skins then transferred to different vessel, vat, or tank to finish the process of fermentation.

Pressé. (like it sounds), is a rosé winemaking method where the red grapes are pressed (or squeezed) until the juice reaches the color the winemaker is looking for. When the juice reaches that color, the pressing is stopped.  

Our Crew for this event was, as always, anxious to dive into their assigned Sunday afternoon task. I always learn something about people and wine…or wine and people…or sometimes just a little bit about one or the other at these tasting events. It was a delight to discover that these wonderfully refreshing rosé wines brought out the very best in an already lovely bunch of people! And again, as usual, all agreed that being a member of The Crew, was, as one member put it, “…still the best way to spend a Sunday afternoon!”  If you happen to be a new reader of BeneathTheCork.com, you should know that the members of our tasting Crews are never the same bunch of folks. They’re an ever-changing, newly selected group of eight or nine buddies, pals, neighbors, friends, colleagues, etc. all gathered to taste a flight of wines, and subsequently scribble pages of tasting notes, along with their impressions, thoughts, food pairing ideas, etc. for this blog. The eclectic group known as The Crew come from all backgrounds, foregrounds, fairgrounds, undergrounds, and walks of life, and are always, without exception, chosen to participate because they possess the two critical traits that have become our selection criteria.. They’re nice folks to hang out with, and they LOVE wines!

We follow a set and standard tasting format.  All of the wines are tasted and evaluated using the American Wine Society’s 20-point evaluation form. In the case of this tasting event, all of the wines were masked and tasted blind.  None of the wines identities, origins, prices, etc. were known or discussed by The Crew until all five wines were tasted and scored. Additionally, each member of the Crew recorded their personal impressions and observations of each wine. It is from those evaluations and tasting notes that the content of this edition of Beneath the Cork is derived. As always, the blog is a compilation of the opinions, comments, impressions, and sometimes even lunatic rants of the members of our tasting panel, herein endeared as “The Crew”. As always, we thank them for their dedicated and tireless service!

Now…let’s see what The Crew had to say after blind-tasting this lovely bouquet of five beautiful rosés…

Château Sainte Roseline, Lampe de Méduse Rosé, Côtes de Provence, 2014

750 ml. – Retail Price – $25.99

As it turns out, this one was the “pick of the litter” (top scorer) with The Crew. The priciest of the lot, and still at a surprisingly affordable twenty-six bucks, this gorgeous wines “glistening” crystal-clear, slightly salmon to pale peach hue is simply beautiful in the glass! Its complex and intense nose offered aromas of strawberries and citrus. A mouthful of freshness with citrus tones and tart, crisp fruit flavors. This wine is rich and round and brings a very long, memorable finish. It was suggested this Rosé de Provence could be deliciously paired with the rich, oily, delicate flavors of chilled smoked salmon or the earthy, salty sharp moldiness of a cave-aged bleu cheese.

AVERAGE SCORE – 18.4/20 points – HIGHEST SCORE OF THE FLIGHT

Château Castel des Maures, Rosé Cuvée Jeanne, Côtes de Provence, 2014

750 ml – Retail Price – $17.99

A slightly darker and “redder” salmon pink color, the Cuvée Jeanne  is a much more “subtle” set of flavors and aromas. With a dry and fruity mid-weight mouth-feel, it surprises with an elegantly long finish. Interestingly, The Crew suggested a BROAD array of food pairings for this wine; ranging from a classic Spinach Salad to the saltiness of Prosciutto and goat cheese. I wasn’t alone in my assertion that this bottle could easily cozy up to a robustly seasoned and moderately spicy plate of barbecue (…like earlier, I’m thinking of a rack of “Memphis-dust” spicy dry-rubbed baby back ribs!).

AVERAGE SCORE – 17.6/20 points

Marques de Caceres Dry Rose – Rioja, Spain

750ml – Retail Price – $12.99

This Rioja Rosado is a bright, coral pink in color with a medium texture. Overtones of red currants, a hint of licorice, and spring flowers, along with what appears to be elevated alcohol are prevalent in the nose. Four out of six of The Crew also found, believe it or not, hints of watermelon in the aroma of this bottle! With a bigger and richer mouth feel, this one invites full-flavored food pairings like sausage pizza and Cuban-style pork, the majority of The Crew agreed that they’d be perfectly happy simply quaffing this one solo on the porch or patio on a warm afternoon!

AVERAGE SCORE – 15.2/20 points

Silverado Vineyards, Sangiovese Rosato, 2014 – Stags Leap District, Napa

750ml – Retail Price – $24.99

From some of the most expensive vineyard real estate in North America, this gorgeous bottle of wine is adorned in the most vividly crystalline “Hot Pink” color of the entire flight.  The Silverado Sangiovese Rosato is a massive explosion of exotic fresh wild-strawberry aromas combined with bold, brilliant RED fruit flavors. It’s fresh-fruit light sweetness lingers on a long, luscious finish. This is one pretty bottle of wine ! (Note: two “OMG”s and three “EXCELLENT”s appeared in the The Crews comments/tasting notes!) And as for food pairings, they were all over the board! Listen to this…blackened grilled fish…Sriracha-grilled shrimp…grilled rare ribeye…crab legs…(are you seeing a trend here?) “Og have fire…Og have meat and sharp stick…Og HUNGRY! Let’s EAT!” This wine seems to have awakened whatever primal carnivorous urges that may have been lying in a repressed state with The Crew! And I have to agree…while this is a stunning “stand-alone” bottle of wine, it BEGS for some great food pairings! And still, once again, put me down for the barbecue!  

AVERAGE SCORE – 17.6/20 points

Alma Negra, Malbec Sparkling Rosé , Mendoza, Argentina, 2009

750ml – Retail Price – $16.99

OK…call me a sucker for bubbles, but I’m old-fashioned that way…there’s NOTHING like finishing with a SPARKLER!  The steady stream of elegant, perfectly formed rose-pink bubbles in this pretty bottle of wine were almost mesmerizing! Loaded with complex aromas of strawberries and raspberries, there was also a soft undertone of fresh flowers (blossoms) in the nose. The intense fruit in the mouth is perfectly balanced with soft acidity and light toastiness that brought a warmth of elegance and softness to a velvety texture. As for food pairings, I’m guessing The Crew was starting to get hungry on me as we finished this last wine. A consensus agreed that this pretty sparkler is absolutely wonderful…all by itself! But it would be right at home with an assortment of fresh fruits, cheeses, and crusty, yeasty breads. Somebody even suggested simply “Italian…you know…like baked ziti!” I’d be willing to try that…or maybe…ummm….barbecue!  

AVERAGE SCORE – 16.1/20 points

And there you have it…a wrap on our version of “Five Shades of Pink”! Five LOVELY bottles of  rosé and eight opinions! (As we’ve said all along, It’s a tough job, but SOMEBODY has to do it!) Swirled, sloshed, splashed, and swilled by another fabulous bunch of we call the Crew. Now it’s YOUR TURN! We hope you’ll try one (or ALL) of these beautiful wines!

As always, if you’ve enjoyed BeneathTheCork.com, please take just a moment to sign up to follow us by email…it’s easy! Simply add your email address up near the top on the right side of the page where it says “Follow us by email”. Then, each new edition will show up in your inbox automatically. Remember to check your email for the validation link. Simply click on it, and you’re all set! Likewise, we’d be honored if you choose to share our blog with your colleagues, friends, family, neighbors…every wine-lover you know! As we like to say, ”It’s nice to share!” Likewise, don’t hesitate to drop us an email and let us know which wines you’d like to see featured in upcoming editions of Beneath the Cork!

KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR OUR NEXT ISSUE! TELL ME…WHICH WINE SHOULD WE REVIEW NEXT? WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU!

Finally, as always,  we close with our standard (although, admittedly, somewhat less-than-original) caveat…“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

Ahhhh…the magically festive mood induced by BUBBLES! Heralded through history as the quintessential beverage of celebration, Champagnes and sparkling wines have come to be the beverage of choice for virtually  every holiday and  special occasion. For many wine lovers (and many “occasional wine drinkers”, too), a touch of “the bubbly” has found its way into the customs of Christmas and New Year’s Eve…. the birth of a child, the celebration of marriage, the joy of an anniversary, congratulatory of a promotion, or a hard-earned victory in a sporting event…practically every special event deserving of celebration, is the perfect venue for the popping of corks and the delightful barrage of nose-tickling, mouth-filling bubbles! To understand how seriously some folks take their bubbles, we’re reminded of Britain’s legendary statesman, Winston Churchill, as he rallied his military commanders of WWII, “Gentlemen, we’re not just fighting for France…we’re fighting for CHAMPAGNE!”  That said, many of us (this writer included) believe that you don’t necessarilly need to wait for a special occasion to enjoy a glass of Champagne (or Prosecco or Cava, or ANY sparkling wine! The beauty of a spring day or the opportunity to chat with friends is also an open-door-invitation to twist the wire six times! (more on that later…)

With some very special holidays now upon us, what better occasion to make this Beneath the Cork review ALL about sparkling wines. We found a more than willing Crew, primed and ready to taste a wonderful array of sparkling wines from Italy, Spain, California, and of course, from the holiest of holies in the world of sparkling wines, Champagne! No matter which direction your tastes in bubbly lean, from sumptuously sweet to delightfully dry, we’re certain you’ll find one of the wines in this veritable smorgasbord of sparklers to your liking! It’s also important to note…you don’t have to break the bank to bask in the opulence of effervescence! A lovely bottle of bubbly can be had starting in the $12 to $15 range!  As always, this group of five very good yet very different sparkling wines wasn’t randomly selected. We set out to compare a lot of different styles at differing price points and a lot of legendary sparkling-wine geography. There’s a cork-popper to satisfy every taste and budget!

First, know that the price range for sparkling wines vary greatly. If you’re REALLY on a budget, there exists a large array of low-buck bubblers produced using the “Injection Method” (that’s where carbon dioxide is blasted into the product, pretty much the same way the carbonation is blasted into your half-liter twist-top of Mountain Dew!). These bottom-tier bottles are readily available for four or five bucks a bottle, but remember…caveat emptor (“let the buyer beware!”) You’ll find most of these “bubble blasters” as exciting as most four-dollar bottles of anything else. Now wait…don’t go running off screaming that the tasting Crew at Beneath the Cork are a bunch of wine-snobs…we just chose not to visit any of these bargain-basement bubblies. (You probably won’t find us tasting four dollar still wines, either! ) And, by the way…in the event that you’ve just hit the Power Ball or Mega-Millions lotto, there are a handful of “over-the-top” bottles that will allow you to visit the staggering six-figure price range! I’m not sure about you, but I’m pretty sure I won’t be seeking out those diamond and ruby-encrusted Baccarat Crystal bottles of rare vintage Champagne to grace the office gift exchange!

For this edition of Beneath the Cork, we chose five sparkling wines from Italy, Spain, California, and, of course, one from the “birthplace of bubbles”, the Champagne region of France. In doing so, we were also able to address a range of styles and prices in the sparkling segment of the marketplace, and, as usual, contained our price range in the comfy $15 to $25 range with the exception, of course, of our last wine, a Brut Rose’ from one of the most prestigious Champagne houses in the world, Veuve Clicquot in France’s Historic Champagne Mecca of Reims. It jingled the cash register at a hearty but certainly not outrageous $69.95 (and I’m confident that every member of the Crew  would tell you it was worth EVERY PENNY!)  You probably recall seeing this old adage in our last episode covering Pinot Noir, and it remains true across the entire spectrum of wine-shopping. In nearly every case, “Ya gets whatcha pays for!”

Our Crew for this event, as always, approached the task at hand with the usual measure of serious aplomb, and, as you might imagine, after the fifth bottle of sparkling wine, found themselves in a noticeably more jovial, laughter-filled, perhaps even “giddy” environment. That environment, by the way, later developed into a full-blown surprise birthday party for yours truly (including a live jazz jam session!). Once again, the entire crowd confirmed that sitting in on the tasting Crew is one spectacular way to spend a Sunday afternoon! In case this is your first visit to Beneath the Cork, you should know that the members of the tasting panels are a constantly changing group of eight to 10 friends, colleagues, and “wine-buddies”, all gathered to taste a flight of wines, then offer their particular insights for the blog. Some young; some not so young. Some have lots of experience tasting a particular wine varietal, region, style, etc., and some relatively new to that wine selection, but certainly not new to the ever-widening world of wine.

In keeping with our set standard tasting format, all of the wines were tasted and evaluated using the American Wine Society’s 20-point evaluation form. Further, each member of the Crew records random impressions and observations on each wine. From those evaluations and tasting notes, we offer this edition of Beneath the Cork, a continual compilation of opinions and commentary from our tasting panel, heretofore known as The Crew.

The wines for this festive tasting event and subsequent review were all acquired at Palmetto Wine and Spirits in the Shoppes at Flight Deck in Lexington. All of the wines tasted are readily available at Palmetto Wine, as well as a WIDE array of other fine wines from the world over. NOW…here’s my “insider’s tip-of-the-week” for this edition. Nearly EVERY Friday, the courteous, fun, and knowledgeable professionals at Palmetto Wine and Spirits open their doors, their hearts, (and their bottles!) for the “Free and Fabulous Wine Tasting”.  There’s nothing better than having an opportunity to taste wines before you buy them as opposed to “rolling the dice” on an unknown commodity! Here’s another great tip…if you purchase a case of wines (full case or “mix and match”), you’ll receive a 10% discount…2 cases…a 15% discount, and 3 or more cases…a WHOPPING 20% discount. Over the years, I’ve dropped in to visit with Sandi and the team at Palmetto, only to find myself tasting a bunch of great wines, then loading three, four, sometimes five cases in the trunk! (As always, this isn’t a commercial, just a friendly tip on a GREAT place to “try before you buy” and save a BUNCH of money on some very nice wines!)

So…before we pop some corks and get on with the show, let me explain something to which I eluded earlier. “Twisting the wire six times”…refers to that funny little wire cage thingamajig  atop the cork of each bottle of fine sparkling wine! Regardless of what it is, where it’s from, or who made it, I’d go so far as to wager that you won’t find a wire-cage that requires more…or less…than six twists to free that little wire rascal (known as the “Muselet”)  from the cork. There’s a lot of speculation and champagne-lore as to the explanation of WHY specifically SIX twists, but no solid, empirical answers. Many of the “pragmatic” types in the wine industry will likely tell you that since there are still only a couple of companies who manufacture the machinery which affixes the muselet to each newly-corked bottle, they all utilize a standard “six-twist” mechanism as a result of engineering and design continuity. Honestly…I prefer to believe that there most certainly MUST be a “WAY MORE ROMANTIC” explanation for this phenomenon! If you’ve heard a better one, I’d love to hear it!

So…finally…here’s what The Crew had to say about this beautiful bunch of bubbles…

LaMarca Prosecco, D.O.C. Italy

750 ml. – Retail Price – $14.99

From the La Marca Trevigiana zone, located in the heart of Italy’s Prosecco region, this charming Italian beauty is a fresh, festive, and very easy-going, easy-drinking bottle of fun! Hues of pretty, pale-straw color, and plentiful bubbles, notes of apricots, citrus, honey, and fresh stone fruits make this Italian favorite a delight to sip! Crisp notes of citrus and apple, and just a hint of minerality (think limestone) and a light, airy finish makes this wine perfect as the Italians’ traditional drink of Spring. Interestingly, several members of the Crew noted a fresh “tart-cherry” flavor present in the finish. It was also suggested that this wine would be perfect with Eggs Benedict topped with a rich Hollandaise sauce. (hmmmm…Prosecco for breakfast…I LOVE the way these people think!)

One further note…the LaMarca Prosecco was recently rated 90 in Wine Spectator and the ONLY Prosecco listed in their “Top 100 Wines” list.

AVERAGE SCORE – 14.5/20 points

Canals Canals Brut Classic’ – Spain

750 ml – Retail Price – $15.99

One of the first impressions of this Spanish charmer noted it’s inherent citrus tones “…like the twist of lemon in a gin ‘n tonic”. There was also a distinct “Granny Smith Apple” nip in the finish. Lively, compact bubbles but light and not too weighty on the palate. I found it especially interesting that some commented on this wine’s probable ability to pair with fried seafood (shrimp, flounder, clams) while a couple of us found it appropriately “sushi/sashimi friendly”.  If you haven’t experienced the crisp bliss of a good Spanish Cava, this is a GREAT place to start!

AVERAGE SCORE – 15/20 points

Chandon Extra-Dry “Riche”, California

750ml – Retail Price – $22.99

Beautiful golden straw color tones and lots of lively, active bubbles! Uniquely, five of the nine members of the Crew described this wine as “…sweet but not sweet….fruity but not overly so…” In my not-always-so-humble opinion, this speaks of a truly well-balanced bottle of wine. The aroma of this bottle had a fresh, crisp “grassiness” with light fruit nuances.  A consensus of the Crew found the Chandon a perfect “Spring/Summer on-the-patio” refresher.

AVERAGE SCORE – 15.5/20 points

Mumm Brut Prestige, Napa, California

Retail Price – $24.99

This mid-bodied, classically-crafted Napa offering exhibits all of the “Methode Traditionalle” style and panache’ of the “real McCoy”. With the rich, bready, yeast complexity of its’ French namesake, the Mumm Napa Brut Prestige is a unique blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that delivers BIG on robust, rapidly-reproducing effervescence, and a broad palate of bright and welcoming flavors. The Crew agreed that it was probably one of the most food-friendly wines in the flight. As for me, I envisioned a mountain of ice-cold smoked Nova Scotia salmon as I sipped this lovely Napa phenom!  An extremely good value with a $25 price tag, it also bears the distinct honor of ranking #54 in Wine Spectator’s 2014 Top 100 Wines list. A Spectator 91 point score and a Wine Enthusiast 91 point score only serve to validate the piling-on of accolades the Mumm Napa Brut Prestige so richly deserves!

AVERAGE SCORE – 16/20 points

Veuve Clicquot Brut Rose’, Reims, France

Retail Price – $69.99

So…finally, we come to the “Show-stopper”! I understand that to infrequent Champagne drinkers, many are skeptical of bottles at the $70+ price point. That skepticism rapidly dissipates after you’ve tasted it! A labor of hand-crafted love from start to finish, this artisan masterpiece delivers everything expected of a “Methode’ Champenoise” Brut Rose’ Champagne…luscious and charming fruit tones of wild strawberry…elegant and alluring yeast aromas of toasted brioche and almonds…an extraordinary mouth-filling richness of tight, lingering bubbles. Veuve Clicquot, one of the most respected Champagne houses in Reim, blends from fifty to sixty crus to assemble this remarkable bottle of wine. A  blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, this one will truly widen your appreciation for the synergy of old-world labor intensity and a swatch of “Art Nouveau” chic in making a fine bottle of Champagne. It’s extremely rare to find a wine that scores 20/20 across a crowd…this one came as close as any I’ve ever tasted!  

AVERAGE SCORE – 19/20 points

So…another tasting event and the last few precious drops drained…five BEAUTIFUL bottles of sparkling wine and nine opinions! It’s a tough job, but SOMEBODY has to do it! Swirled, sloshed, splashed, and swilled by another fabulous bunch we call the Crew. We encourage you to grab a couple bottles of each of these beautiful sparklers to enhance your holiday celebrations! Believe me, now I know where the lyric “Making Spirits Bright” came from!

As always, if you’ve liked what you’ve read, please follow us by email…simply add your email address and each new edition will show up in your inbox. Remember to check your email for the validation link. Simply click on it, and you’re all set! Likewise, we’d be honored if you choose to share our blog with your colleagues, friends, family, neighbors…whoever! Always remember: It’s nice to share! Likewise, don’t hesitate to drop us an email and let us know which wines you’d like to see featured in upcoming editions of Beneath the Cork!

LOOK FOR OUR NEXT ISSUE IN THE NEW YEAR! YOU TELL ME…WHAT SHOULD WE REVIEW NEXT?

Finally, I wish for each and every one of you, joyous holidays filled with the wonder and spirit of the season, the joy of family, good friends, and good wine and food, and a prosperous New Year!

Again…we close with the mantra of Beneath the Cork…

“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

What a great road to travel for the inaugural gathering of The Crew and the first tasting of Beneath The Cork: The magical, mystical Pinot Noir! With Thanksgiving and its herculean cross-section of food styles and family traditions just around the corner, I can’t think of a better batch of bottles to blog about!

For this focused flight of Pinot Noir, we gave a lot of thought to consistency in the “lay of the land.” This wasn’t just a random selection of four bottles of Pinot Noir, mind you. But instead, a truly well considered lineup of wines, all likely comparative contenders on a couple points of commonality.

First, we wanted to showcase some of the United States’ premiere Pinot Noir real estate. For that reason, we chose two AVA’s with a lot of similarities, yet a lot MORE contrasts: Sonoma and Willamette – two of the ultimo-primo American Pinot Noir sanctuaries!

We also wanted to keep the playing field somewhat (ok…mostly) level from the perspective of pricing. Believe me when I say you can buy Pinot Noir in the U.S. for anywhere from $6 to $600 a bottle. We wanted to make sure our wines were attainable for ALL of our readers.

And that, my dear friends, is why we chose one Pinot each from Sonoma and Willamette in the comfortable $15 to $20 range and the other two, from the same geography, in the slightly loftier $25 to $40 price point. Neither are budget-busters, but likewise, wines you could be proud to put on your holiday table.

As a result of this pricing strategy, The Crew was able to confirm a couple of things we already knew. First, there are a LOT of really good Pinot Noirs available in the crowded under-$20 field. Second, and perhaps equally important, we were reminded of the old adage “Ya gets whatcha pays for!” (i.e. spend a couple extra bucks on Pinot Noir and you’ll get to watch much BIGGER ponies run the race!)

As for this edition’s Crew, I’m not sure when I’ve seen a more eclectic and diverse group of folks (different ages, different interests, different EVERYTHING) have so much fun together. They all tasted on the same platform, using the American Wine Society’s 20-point evaluation chart, and they all recorded random impressions and observations on each wine. It is from those tasting notes that I believe the most useful (and probably most entertaining) commentary will spring forth.

At this point, I should explain…with every new edition of Beneath the Cork, our tasting panel, heretofore known as The Crew changes. Members of the tasting panels will always be a group of eight to 10 friends, colleagues, and, occasionally, there will be those who will fall into the more appropriate category of “known associates.”

Some will be young; some, well, not so young. Some will have lots of experience tasting a particular wine varietal, region, style, etc., and some relatively new to that wine selection. But certainly not new to the fruit of the vine.

At the end of the day, we will have collected a vastly eclectic array of opinions, notions, and impressions that we’ll turn into the herein condensed commentary soon to become famously known as Beneath the Cork!

All four of the wines reviewed in this edition were acquired at TOTAL WINE & MORE on Harbison Boulevard in Columbia. They are (and will continue be) available. In fact, let me offer my tip of the week.

Here’s a tidbit of information you ALL need to know about. You can taste some great Pinot Noirs (AND A LOT OF OTHER EXTRAORDINARY WINES FOR THE HOLIDAYS) at TOTAL WINE & MORE’S THANKSGIVING TASTING on FRIDAY AND SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12 & 13 from Noon to 6 PM. A virtual smorgasbord of wine and food pairings for the upcoming holiday season, here’s a chance to TRY BEFORE YOU BUY. (This isn’t a commercial, just an insight to an opportunity to taste a WHOLE BUNCH of really good wines and some delicious foods for free! So, how’s THAT for an inside tip, huh?!)

So let’s get down to brass tacks. Here’s what The Crew had to say about this four-bottle flight of mighty tasty Pinot Noirs…

COURTNEY BENHAM PINOT NOIR – SONOMA 2014
Alcohol 14.2% Retail Price – $17.99

Vibrant color, ruby-red with a “jewel-like” clarity. Initially shy in the nose, but opened up to inviting aromas of fresh bing cherry, stone fruit, and finally faint leather and smoke. A “lighter” styled Pinot with soft tones of bright, fresh fruit. Most agreed this wine would be nicely positioned with delicately flavored foods.
AVERAGE SCORE – 16.5 points

DOMAINE LOUBEJAC PINOT NOIR – WILLAMETTE 2014
Alcohol 13.5% 750ml Retail Price – $17.99

Clear, deep, rich red color. Soft nose offers ripe berries, basil, even slightly “floral” (think rose blossom) aromas. Elegant and medium-bodied with some lively, bright fruit flavors. Some noted a “smokiness” in the finish. The fruit/acid/tannin balance is nicely accomplished, too. While channeling my inner “foodie-guy,” I had visions of grilled lamb with Mediterranean spices dancing in my head!
AVERAGE SCORE – 17 points

TULI PINOT NOIR – SONOMA 2013
Alcohol 13.9% 750ml Retail Price – $25.99

5th-generation Belle Glos Winemaker Joseph “Joe” Wagner (Does his name sound familiar? He’s the grandson of Charlie and the son of Chuck of the “Famous-Caymus” winemaking Wagner family) creates this Pinot Noir EXCLUSIVELY for Total Wine & More. Crystal-clear, dark red! The nose is a stark dichotomy of dark stone fruit and earthiness – even mushroom but then, “…pie-like cinnamon ‘n’ spice tones are banging around in my nose…” cited one of The Crew. A lot bigger and bolder, and definitely a broadly food-friendly bottle, the Tuli’s finish lingers for quite a while. I won’t be disappointed if this little fella shows up in the mix at our Thanksgiving table this year. Fact is I’m likely to pick up multiple bottles of this one for the impending holiday season!
AVERAGE SCORE – 18.5 points

DOMAINE SERENE PINOT NOIR – WILLAMETTE 2009
Alcohol 14.4% 750ml Retail Price – $35.99

As a kid, we used to make up extraordinary “imaginary composite creations”. For example, we’d ponder “If you could take the best of ‘this’…then combine it with the best of ‘that’…and then add it to the best of ‘the other…’” Well, that’s pretty much what producers and founders of Domaine Serene Ken and Grace Evenstad did with this one. Do a little online research, and you’ll discover that there is a BUNCH of specific estate bottlings of Domaine Serene. The one we feature here is a blend of all of the magical and marvelous things that the winemaker fancies!

Beautiful color starting to take on a little “brick” on the edges! The aroma hints at those amazing “forest floor” botanical/biological components but still rife with lots of fresh, vibrant fruit. (And if that wasn’t enough, one of the more experienced Pinot Noir-Heads on The Crew picked up vivid notes of rosemary in the nose!) The flavors run a gamut from “Herbal” to “Carnivorous!” Rich dark-fruit styles along with lots of complex elements in a nicely balanced bottle of wine. This wine is a great example of what to serve when there are a lot of culinary styles, flavor sets, and ethnic traditions showing up at the table! It’s big enough to stand up to some hefty flavors, but delicate enough to understand subtle nuance, too!
AVERAGE SCORE – 18.5 points

So…there you have it: Four lovely Pinot Noirs swirled, sloshed, splashed, and swilled by a fun and funny bunch of (and I should add, some of the loveliest) people it’s ever been my pleasure to share a few bottles of wine with!

If you liked what you’ve read, please follow us by email…simply add your email address and each new edition will show up in your inbox. Likewise, we’d be honored if you choose to share our blog with your colleagues, friends, family, neighbors…whoever! Always remember: It’s nice to share! Likewise, don’t hesitate to drop us an email and let us know which wines you’d like to see featured in upcoming editions of Beneath the Cork!

COMING IN THE DECEMBER ISSUE – “LET THERE BE BUBBLES…Sparkling wines for the Holidays!”

We’ll close with our main (albeit not all that original) caveat…

“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”

Beneath The Cork…finally there is a blog site dedicated to straightforward, fun, and sometimes even funny wine reviews in South Carolina’s Midlands. All without the flowery, eye-rolling wine-snob hyperbole.
“If it tastes like peach pie or has a nose like KFC coleslaw, that’s more than likely what we’re going write,” says Publisher Dan Hanfland, a retired wine-industry veteran, chairman of the local American Wine Society Chapter, and creator of the blog.

With wine experience dating back to the mid-70s when the fledgling California wine industry was coming of age, Hanfland’s candid approach to reviewing and describing wines is a welcome breath of fresh air.

“Recently releases are sniffed, swirled, sloshed, and slurped by ‘The Crew’”, adds Hanfland. “This cadre of six to eight tasters and reviewers is an eclectic and constantly-changing cross-section of folks from every boulevard, boardwalk, and back road of life, each with a unique set of wine tasting and evaluation skills.

“Who knows, this week’s collection of brutally candid and sometimes downright hilarious comments might come from a restaurant owner, a lawyer, and a piano tuner. Next months, ‘Crew’ might be a chemist, a pastor, and a yoga instructor.

“Lots of different and unique folks enjoy a lot of different and unique wines…all in unique and different price ranges. Everybody has a palate – some sophisticated, some pedestrian. And an opinion…lord knows, they ALL have an opinion!”

“Who’s to say any one is more or less valid than another? That’s why we select such a diverse array of folks to sit in on our tasting panels.”

Completely accessible and all together approachable, there is, finally, a real-people wine blog in the Midlands of South Carolina. Whether it’s red, white, or somewhere in-between, Beneath The Cork offers fresh, fun, and hype-free tasting notes and discussions without all the frou-frou cork-dork wine-ponce dialect.

Don’t miss a single issue of Beneath The Cork! We’re confident that it’s about to become your go-to guide to some of the best bottles and best buys out there! On the often over-crowded playing field of retail wine shelves in South Carolina’s Midlands, it’s nice to finally have some easy-to-understand, accurate, and candid buying advice.

It’s easy to have Beneath The Cork automatically delivered to your email inbox every time a new edition is published! Simply go to  http://www.beneaththecork.com, type your email address in the box, and click submit!

There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!