Ahhhh…the magically festive mood induced by BUBBLES! Heralded through history as the quintessential beverage of celebration, Champagnes and sparkling wines have come to be the beverage of choice for virtually every holiday and special occasion. For many wine lovers (and many “occasional wine drinkers”, too), a touch of “the bubbly” has found its way into the customs of Christmas and New Year’s Eve…. the birth of a child, the celebration of marriage, the joy of an anniversary, congratulatory of a promotion, or a hard-earned victory in a sporting event…practically every special event deserving of celebration, is the perfect venue for the popping of corks and the delightful barrage of nose-tickling, mouth-filling bubbles! To understand how seriously some folks take their bubbles, we’re reminded of Britain’s legendary statesman, Winston Churchill, as he rallied his military commanders of WWII, “Gentlemen, we’re not just fighting for France…we’re fighting for CHAMPAGNE!” That said, many of us (this writer included) believe that you don’t necessarilly need to wait for a special occasion to enjoy a glass of Champagne (or Prosecco or Cava, or ANY sparkling wine! The beauty of a spring day or the opportunity to chat with friends is also an open-door-invitation to twist the wire six times! (more on that later…)
With some very special holidays now upon us, what better occasion to make this Beneath the Cork review ALL about sparkling wines. We found a more than willing Crew, primed and ready to taste a wonderful array of sparkling wines from Italy, Spain, California, and of course, from the holiest of holies in the world of sparkling wines, Champagne! No matter which direction your tastes in bubbly lean, from sumptuously sweet to delightfully dry, we’re certain you’ll find one of the wines in this veritable smorgasbord of sparklers to your liking! It’s also important to note…you don’t have to break the bank to bask in the opulence of effervescence! A lovely bottle of bubbly can be had starting in the $12 to $15 range! As always, this group of five very good yet very different sparkling wines wasn’t randomly selected. We set out to compare a lot of different styles at differing price points and a lot of legendary sparkling-wine geography. There’s a cork-popper to satisfy every taste and budget!
First, know that the price range for sparkling wines vary greatly. If you’re REALLY on a budget, there exists a large array of low-buck bubblers produced using the “Injection Method” (that’s where carbon dioxide is blasted into the product, pretty much the same way the carbonation is blasted into your half-liter twist-top of Mountain Dew!). These bottom-tier bottles are readily available for four or five bucks a bottle, but remember…caveat emptor (“let the buyer beware!”) You’ll find most of these “bubble blasters” as exciting as most four-dollar bottles of anything else. Now wait…don’t go running off screaming that the tasting Crew at Beneath the Cork are a bunch of wine-snobs…we just chose not to visit any of these bargain-basement bubblies. (You probably won’t find us tasting four dollar still wines, either! ) And, by the way…in the event that you’ve just hit the Power Ball or Mega-Millions lotto, there are a handful of “over-the-top” bottles that will allow you to visit the staggering six-figure price range! I’m not sure about you, but I’m pretty sure I won’t be seeking out those diamond and ruby-encrusted Baccarat Crystal bottles of rare vintage Champagne to grace the office gift exchange!
For this edition of Beneath the Cork, we chose five sparkling wines from Italy, Spain, California, and, of course, one from the “birthplace of bubbles”, the Champagne region of France. In doing so, we were also able to address a range of styles and prices in the sparkling segment of the marketplace, and, as usual, contained our price range in the comfy $15 to $25 range with the exception, of course, of our last wine, a Brut Rose’ from one of the most prestigious Champagne houses in the world, Veuve Clicquot in France’s Historic Champagne Mecca of Reims. It jingled the cash register at a hearty but certainly not outrageous $69.95 (and I’m confident that every member of the Crew would tell you it was worth EVERY PENNY!) You probably recall seeing this old adage in our last episode covering Pinot Noir, and it remains true across the entire spectrum of wine-shopping. In nearly every case, “Ya gets whatcha pays for!”
Our Crew for this event, as always, approached the task at hand with the usual measure of serious aplomb, and, as you might imagine, after the fifth bottle of sparkling wine, found themselves in a noticeably more jovial, laughter-filled, perhaps even “giddy” environment. That environment, by the way, later developed into a full-blown surprise birthday party for yours truly (including a live jazz jam session!). Once again, the entire crowd confirmed that sitting in on the tasting Crew is one spectacular way to spend a Sunday afternoon! In case this is your first visit to Beneath the Cork, you should know that the members of the tasting panels are a constantly changing group of eight to 10 friends, colleagues, and “wine-buddies”, all gathered to taste a flight of wines, then offer their particular insights for the blog. Some young; some not so young. Some have lots of experience tasting a particular wine varietal, region, style, etc., and some relatively new to that wine selection, but certainly not new to the ever-widening world of wine.
In keeping with our set standard tasting format, all of the wines were tasted and evaluated using the American Wine Society’s 20-point evaluation form. Further, each member of the Crew records random impressions and observations on each wine. From those evaluations and tasting notes, we offer this edition of Beneath the Cork, a continual compilation of opinions and commentary from our tasting panel, heretofore known as The Crew.
The wines for this festive tasting event and subsequent review were all acquired at Palmetto Wine and Spirits in the Shoppes at Flight Deck in Lexington. All of the wines tasted are readily available at Palmetto Wine, as well as a WIDE array of other fine wines from the world over. NOW…here’s my “insider’s tip-of-the-week” for this edition. Nearly EVERY Friday, the courteous, fun, and knowledgeable professionals at Palmetto Wine and Spirits open their doors, their hearts, (and their bottles!) for the “Free and Fabulous Wine Tasting”. There’s nothing better than having an opportunity to taste wines before you buy them as opposed to “rolling the dice” on an unknown commodity! Here’s another great tip…if you purchase a case of wines (full case or “mix and match”), you’ll receive a 10% discount…2 cases…a 15% discount, and 3 or more cases…a WHOPPING 20% discount. Over the years, I’ve dropped in to visit with Sandi and the team at Palmetto, only to find myself tasting a bunch of great wines, then loading three, four, sometimes five cases in the trunk! (As always, this isn’t a commercial, just a friendly tip on a GREAT place to “try before you buy” and save a BUNCH of money on some very nice wines!)
So…before we pop some corks and get on with the show, let me explain something to which I eluded earlier. “Twisting the wire six times”…refers to that funny little wire cage thingamajig atop the cork of each bottle of fine sparkling wine! Regardless of what it is, where it’s from, or who made it, I’d go so far as to wager that you won’t find a wire-cage that requires more…or less…than six twists to free that little wire rascal (known as the “Muselet”) from the cork. There’s a lot of speculation and champagne-lore as to the explanation of WHY specifically SIX twists, but no solid, empirical answers. Many of the “pragmatic” types in the wine industry will likely tell you that since there are still only a couple of companies who manufacture the machinery which affixes the muselet to each newly-corked bottle, they all utilize a standard “six-twist” mechanism as a result of engineering and design continuity. Honestly…I prefer to believe that there most certainly MUST be a “WAY MORE ROMANTIC” explanation for this phenomenon! If you’ve heard a better one, I’d love to hear it!
So…finally…here’s what The Crew had to say about this beautiful bunch of bubbles…
LaMarca Prosecco, D.O.C. Italy
750 ml. – Retail Price – $14.99
From the La Marca Trevigiana zone, located in the heart of Italy’s Prosecco region, this charming Italian beauty is a fresh, festive, and very easy-going, easy-drinking bottle of fun! Hues of pretty, pale-straw color, and plentiful bubbles, notes of apricots, citrus, honey, and fresh stone fruits make this Italian favorite a delight to sip! Crisp notes of citrus and apple, and just a hint of minerality (think limestone) and a light, airy finish makes this wine perfect as the Italians’ traditional drink of Spring. Interestingly, several members of the Crew noted a fresh “tart-cherry” flavor present in the finish. It was also suggested that this wine would be perfect with Eggs Benedict topped with a rich Hollandaise sauce. (hmmmm…Prosecco for breakfast…I LOVE the way these people think!)
One further note…the LaMarca Prosecco was recently rated 90 in Wine Spectator and the ONLY Prosecco listed in their “Top 100 Wines” list.
AVERAGE SCORE – 14.5/20 points
Canals Canals Brut Classic’ – Spain
750 ml – Retail Price – $15.99
One of the first impressions of this Spanish charmer noted it’s inherent citrus tones “…like the twist of lemon in a gin ‘n tonic”. There was also a distinct “Granny Smith Apple” nip in the finish. Lively, compact bubbles but light and not too weighty on the palate. I found it especially interesting that some commented on this wine’s probable ability to pair with fried seafood (shrimp, flounder, clams) while a couple of us found it appropriately “sushi/sashimi friendly”. If you haven’t experienced the crisp bliss of a good Spanish Cava, this is a GREAT place to start!
AVERAGE SCORE – 15/20 points
Chandon Extra-Dry “Riche”, California
750ml – Retail Price – $22.99
Beautiful golden straw color tones and lots of lively, active bubbles! Uniquely, five of the nine members of the Crew described this wine as “…sweet but not sweet….fruity but not overly so…” In my not-always-so-humble opinion, this speaks of a truly well-balanced bottle of wine. The aroma of this bottle had a fresh, crisp “grassiness” with light fruit nuances. A consensus of the Crew found the Chandon a perfect “Spring/Summer on-the-patio” refresher.
AVERAGE SCORE – 15.5/20 points
Mumm Brut Prestige, Napa, California
Retail Price – $24.99
This mid-bodied, classically-crafted Napa offering exhibits all of the “Methode Traditionalle” style and panache’ of the “real McCoy”. With the rich, bready, yeast complexity of its’ French namesake, the Mumm Napa Brut Prestige is a unique blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that delivers BIG on robust, rapidly-reproducing effervescence, and a broad palate of bright and welcoming flavors. The Crew agreed that it was probably one of the most food-friendly wines in the flight. As for me, I envisioned a mountain of ice-cold smoked Nova Scotia salmon as I sipped this lovely Napa phenom! An extremely good value with a $25 price tag, it also bears the distinct honor of ranking #54 in Wine Spectator’s 2014 Top 100 Wines list. A Spectator 91 point score and a Wine Enthusiast 91 point score only serve to validate the piling-on of accolades the Mumm Napa Brut Prestige so richly deserves!
AVERAGE SCORE – 16/20 points
Veuve Clicquot Brut Rose’, Reims, France
Retail Price – $69.99
So…finally, we come to the “Show-stopper”! I understand that to infrequent Champagne drinkers, many are skeptical of bottles at the $70+ price point. That skepticism rapidly dissipates after you’ve tasted it! A labor of hand-crafted love from start to finish, this artisan masterpiece delivers everything expected of a “Methode’ Champenoise” Brut Rose’ Champagne…luscious and charming fruit tones of wild strawberry…elegant and alluring yeast aromas of toasted brioche and almonds…an extraordinary mouth-filling richness of tight, lingering bubbles. Veuve Clicquot, one of the most respected Champagne houses in Reim, blends from fifty to sixty crus to assemble this remarkable bottle of wine. A blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay, this one will truly widen your appreciation for the synergy of old-world labor intensity and a swatch of “Art Nouveau” chic in making a fine bottle of Champagne. It’s extremely rare to find a wine that scores 20/20 across a crowd…this one came as close as any I’ve ever tasted!
AVERAGE SCORE – 19/20 points
So…another tasting event and the last few precious drops drained…five BEAUTIFUL bottles of sparkling wine and nine opinions! It’s a tough job, but SOMEBODY has to do it! Swirled, sloshed, splashed, and swilled by another fabulous bunch we call the Crew. We encourage you to grab a couple bottles of each of these beautiful sparklers to enhance your holiday celebrations! Believe me, now I know where the lyric “Making Spirits Bright” came from!
As always, if you’ve liked what you’ve read, please follow us by email…simply add your email address and each new edition will show up in your inbox. Remember to check your email for the validation link. Simply click on it, and you’re all set! Likewise, we’d be honored if you choose to share our blog with your colleagues, friends, family, neighbors…whoever! Always remember: It’s nice to share! Likewise, don’t hesitate to drop us an email and let us know which wines you’d like to see featured in upcoming editions of Beneath the Cork!
LOOK FOR OUR NEXT ISSUE IN THE NEW YEAR! YOU TELL ME…WHAT SHOULD WE REVIEW NEXT?
Finally, I wish for each and every one of you, joyous holidays filled with the wonder and spirit of the season, the joy of family, good friends, and good wine and food, and a prosperous New Year!
Again…we close with the mantra of Beneath the Cork…
“There’s no need to stay thirsty, my friends!”